Day 12: 逃票 去佛罗伦萨 看大卫

清晨,赶到 La Spezia 的火车站。

独自旅行的第四天即将开始,但今天有点疲惫。

已经慢慢形成的 routine,搭火车,看风景,找住处,unpack,洗漱,整理行程,安排第二天行程,睡觉,再 pack。 我好像需要更多的睡眠和更轻的行李,来激励自己全身心的欣赏即将到来的佛罗伦萨。
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为什么明明后面的时钟都已经快十点半了,前面还赫然写着火车 10:06 分就到站?

随性的意大利人,也随性到意大利的火车系统上了。
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去佛罗伦萨需要转一趟车,由于第一班延误,第二班完全没赶上,又不知道下一班什么时候来,所以我就勇敢的逃了一次票 …  等到下一班火车来的时候,和身边的人确认这一趟也是去 Firenza(意大利语 佛罗伦萨),就跟着人潮跳上了往南去的火车。

很有 “公德” 的一直扶着行李箱站在车厢和车厢之间,这样也不占其他乘客的座位。但其实一直到下车都木有人来查票 …

行李箱太大唯一的好处是,累的时候可以坐在上面睡着。
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Oh yeah,佛罗伦萨的站台是平的!不用拖着行李上下楼梯是我现在最大的愿望。而且,人生第一次顺利逃票成功。

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离车站步行才 7 分钟的 Airbnb,对于拖着行李的我而言,需要两倍的时间。到达公寓之后,居然发现公寓也没有电梯,而且欧洲的二层,相当于三层,真是挑战无极限,拼了。

这么多天,第一次有种快累趴下的感觉。

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这次的 Airbnb 房东是仍然是一对 couple,只见到其中的女生,年轻,高挑,小麦色肤色,眼睛深邃,大长胳膊大长腿,非常漂亮。

放下行李之后,她和我坐在沙发上,拿起地图跟我解释佛罗伦萨的景点。沙发是那种很软,坐下去好像要把人吞噬进去的那种。所以我就和大长腿一起在沙发一坐,就被沙发吞进去,然后隔很近。我常常觉得亚洲人的安全距离比较大,陌生人和陌生人之间需要隔个几十厘米才感觉正常,所以当大长腿的胳膊和腿都直接靠在我身上的时候,我还是莫名想要有点距离感,但动一动沙发就把我俩吞更深一点。

所以当她在跟我讲那些佛罗伦萨她推荐的餐馆和看夜景的地方的时候,我就一直在开小差 … 所以这个时候我要是个男生就完美了 😉


之前补看了一部关于佛罗伦萨的电影《冷静与热情之间》,男主角竹野内丰饰演的年轻艺术家在佛罗伦萨潜心钻研修复古画的技巧,片中很多片段就是他骑着自行车穿梭于佛罗伦萨类似这样深深浅浅的巷子里。

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偶遇一家门牌号下贴着 Gucci 标志的院子。进去一问,发现是专门给大客户准备的 show room,像我这种好像连 Gucci 的包都没有买过的人,只能绕着走了。

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先去了皮蒂宫和波波里花园,对于在佛罗伦萨称霸一方的美地奇家族而言,这不过是他们众多建筑物和艺术收藏品宫殿中的一座吧。

真的好累,而且当时的佛罗伦萨又是艳阳高照,爬到花园顶端已经气喘吁吁,但风景其实一般。可能是因为之前看过其他宫廷花园的缘故,这座私人花园的格局毕竟不大。

如果有什么所谓的 expected Italian dining experience,这样在古老的拱门下,还有文艺复兴时期雕像做伴的小餐桌,就是了吧。

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这一座雕像真的是让人不忍吐槽 😉
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从波波里花园出来之后,还有一些时间才到预约的学院美术馆的入馆时间,于是钻进街角巷尾的小店里,消磨时间。
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去哪儿都少不了买张当地明信片,但这么 antique 的,并且仍然是可以寄出来的,还是第一次见。

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Fiorenza, Firenze or Florence? 哪个才是你真实的名字呢?

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不紧不慢晃到学院美术馆,已经是下午四点,travel guide book 果然没有骗人,如果不预约的话,门口排上几个小时的队太有可能了。难怪 Jarod 说当时他们排了一下午,跟前后的一起排队的人都聊熟络了,才进馆。

所以,如果你也打算去佛罗伦萨的话,别忘了在这个网站上预约门票。

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学院美术馆是全世界第一所美术学院。当年可是有米开朗基罗作为开馆的名誉馆长。这逼格高的。

可能是藏品太多,与美国那些一挥手几千尺的展厅相比,这里狭窄的展示厅,叠起来展示的一幅幅画,有一种美术学院仓库或是学生作品展示的感觉。但事实是,这里的任何一副藏品放到世界的另一个地方,都会是熠熠生辉的展示美术历史的珍品。
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这种写实派的雕塑,在十七世纪就已经很传神了。我只是觉得,真实到,好像是生活或者电影里会看到的人的五官,所以照下来。
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全馆的 highlight 就在下面这座大卫像。当米开朗基罗接下这座未完成的白色大理石,试着完成大卫的时候,他才 26 岁。两年多的时间,他将大卫塑造成文艺复兴时期 “最美” 的雕塑,这与雕塑中年轻的大卫的容貌当然不无关系,但更重要的是,他投石的姿势,将重心摆在一只脚踝上的动作设计,和全身流畅的肌肉线条。

米开朗基罗对男性身体充满歌颂却又细致入微的刻画,难怪在后世人看来,不免也要把他掰歪了。喜好和取向永远都不是非黑即白,不过是 continuum 上的一个点罢了。

还有就是,看过大卫像之后,我居然在后面的长凳上睡着了半小时 … 不知道他有没有收到我托的梦。
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出来不远处就是圣母百花大教堂。第一次看到红顶白墙的教堂,当然还是觉得很震撼。

虽然不知道它为什么要叫 “圣母” 和 “百花”,但一看到外面的颜色和装饰,就觉得很搭调。欧洲人民为了修教堂,真是无所不用其极。

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这几个人的装束,放到地铁通道里,跟摆摊儿的也差不太多吧,但拿起提琴来,就完全起了范儿,音乐的魅力真是不容小觑。合的是 summertime,为数不多的能哼出来的 jazz classic 之一。

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广场上非常 touristy 的意大利餐馆,其实味道并不差。

服务生看我一个人坐下来,也并无惊讶,应该是见惯了来佛罗伦萨独自朝圣的旅人,只是如果有旅伴的话,他可能会更活络许多的介绍菜品,招揽生意。

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仍然是要挤到老桥上去看看夜景的。这是夜幕快降临的时候。
IMG_20150527_205421这是自拍了几张之后(自拍真的很花时间 … ),天又再黑一点 …
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老桥上都是这样一家家好像保险箱的金银珠宝店。可惜来的太晚,已没机会欣赏凝视了眼前阿瓦河几百年的这些金银首饰。
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天色再黑一点,就要开始往回走了。河畔两旁的餐馆和旅馆也亮起了灯。

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回家路上路过这家很内敛的 gelato 小店,与其他将 gelato 口味在视觉上暴露在食客眼前的其他小店比起来,这家将 gelato 们封装在一个个小铁罐子里。

但,这却是此行为止,最好吃的 gelato,没有之一。
IMG_20150527_211210IMG_20150527_211354 IMG_20150527_211604精致小巧的店面,装潢上也很是别致。
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白天的古城,的确是披长袍,着饰品,画着文艺复兴眉眼的。阳光下看来,妆容华丽,不敢亲近;晚上反而让人觉得清丽可人了很多。

在佛罗伦萨半天,最美的时刻,可能是这循着阿瓦河一路往西的沿途夜景了。
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晚安,佛罗伦萨。
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