Day 11: 悬崖上的彩虹

除非有人帮忙搬行李,不然下次出行一定少带一半行李。不够临时买都行,但拖着这么个大箱子在意大利坐火车,真是太锻炼体力了 …

好容易把行李拽到米兰火车站。下一站,是传说中风景绝美的五渔村(Cinque Terre)。
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如果有用过 Chromecast 的话,有时候屏保里会出现这样一张照片:取景处就在意大利的五渔村。美得有点儿不太真实 🙂 尽管稍微有一点 out of the way,但为了体验一下美景,仍然 ambitious 的把它放到了自己的行程里。

Cinque 在意大利语里是 “五” 的意思,Cinque Terre,其实是散落在意大利地中海沿岸的五个小村庄。村庄和村庄之间有类似以前国内的绿皮小火车联通(once upon a while when we didn’t have the high-speed railway system…),但也有徒步栈道连接各个村庄。一侧是依山而建沐浴托斯卡纳阳光的葡萄园,一侧是湛蓝的地中海,这样的栈道走起来应该都不觉得那么累了吧。

当然,现在的村民们已经不需要打渔为生了,世界各地说各种语言各种肤色的游客们的兴趣和腰包,就足以让这里的人们过上较一般意大利村庄更为富足的生活。


由于懒到出发前才订好住处,选择住在了一个叫 La Spezia 的小镇,坐小火车去村庄也很方便。到了火车站,又是一阵叮铃哐啷才把行李拽到住处。

这次 Airbnb 的房东 Anna 挺有料。我一到她就提醒我,下午可能有学生要来上课。我问什么课,Anna 说她叫 jazz vocal…  sounded very fancy…

顺带参观了一下她的 sudio,古旧的风琴,随地摆放的吉他,和各种乐谱 CD,除了那台略显老旧的 HP 的笔记本电脑,让我有点担心如果要在上面 mix music 好像不会太给力,但除此之外,一切其他的陈设都和想象中的爵士女音乐家搭配得很好。

Anna 在意大利南部出生,成年之后就开始玩音乐了,漂洋过海去巴西,可能是想探寻一下 Latin Jazz?  但我想除了少数成名成家的,大多数音乐家都还是过着郁郁不得志的生活,维生最实际的方式也只能是教音乐了吧。她说话的嗓音有点自带沙哑,如果她知道周迅是谁的话 …
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我提到上两周才刚去旧金山听过的 Esperanza Spalding 的演出,可能是粉丝对粉丝的惺惺相惜,她突然说要送我个礼物。打开大柜子,拿出一盘 CD,说是她以前做的音乐。我当然是如获至宝千恩万谢。

千里迢迢带回湾区,已经听了差不多一星期,觉得当然有瑕疵,但是最难得是这种即兴的调调和韵味,也越听觉得越有味道。

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才下午一点,自然是稍事休整,再出门暴走的节奏。

计划是坐小火车,从所住的小镇,到最靠北的渔村,然后再一路向南。

在火车站买票的一个小插曲:不知道是因为意大利,还是因为这个小镇,总之卖火车票,卖纪念品和问询处 Info center,在一个柜台。虽然柜台看上去好像有三个工作人员,但实际上有两个都在闲聊,真正工作的只有一个。

排队的人倒是不多,十个左右而已,但每个前去买票的人,当然都可能会买些纪念品,可能有几个关于游览五渔村的问题要问,结果就是每个游客都需要在柜台前磨蹭个上十分钟。那排在队伍后面的游客自然不满意了,千里迢迢跑到渔村,结果排队买火车票等一个小时。

从效率的角度出发,完全可以员工负责一个卖票,一个负责回答游客问题,需要赶火车的,买完票就可以走。

中间有游客实在忍不住,抱怨了一下,结果居然被排队的其他意大利游客挡了回去,一位意大利大叔指着正在耐心给游客解答问题的唯一一位工作人员说,“她已经很努力了,你想怎样?”(She’s trying her best, what else do you want?)。

唉,这效率,难怪火车要晚点呢 …


故事讲完,下面开始晒图 …

这是到达小镇后火车站外面的风景,刚过正午,阳光,好像有点没睡醒的意思 🙂IMG_20150526_144824IMG_20150526_154911

之后偶遇一片柠檬园,和一对美国过来的老夫妇,和他们悠闲的逛逛聊聊天,非常惬意。

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一开始有点犹豫要不要一个人从最北的村庄 Monterosso 徒步到毗邻的 Vernazza。距离是三公里,大概要走两小时,有上上下下的山路。年初滑雪让膝盖有一些还未恢复的损伤,虽然行走没有问题,但的确还没有使劲儿爬过山。当时是下午三点,我想着不然就慢慢的走,哪怕走个三四个小时,也还不至于天黑,走走停停就好,实在是不想错过沿途的风景。

于是收起外套和围巾,买了瓶水,把背包拉紧,开始向南行进,这是拾级而上之后,回望出发村庄的景色。
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沿路有这样的指示表,告诉你经纬度和到达了第几个标记点。
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看到个有意思的小水洼,从桥上俯瞰来一张 🙂
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离村庄越来越远,与海岸线之间也开始出现一些葡萄园,是为间隔。
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接下来就不断不断的或平坦或起伏的小路,每隔几分钟景致都会有所变化,不觉得闷。

一路还在听 Rick Steve 的 audio interview about Italian cuisine。在高高低低的意大利乡间,听他们大谈特谈意大利的通心粉奶酪和甜点,很是惬意。

一个人旅行并不会孤单,声音和音乐也可能成为很有意思的 companion;当然,如果是一个无趣的 companion,可能还不如一个人吧。
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沿途还偶遇穿 bikini 的 “身材姐” 和跟在她后面忠心耿耿提包的 “身材哥”。真是 “家教” 有方 😉
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将近两个小时后,终于又开始离海岸线越来越近。
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远远的也开始能看到下一个村庄了。
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再近一点。
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再近一点,我就入镜了 😉

沿路碰到一个女孩儿,洋,很有北方人感觉的广东人,终于有一个互相拍照的 companion。我好像是那种旅游的时候,有人拍照就照两张,也懒得拿来相机看照得好不好看的人,有了 Yang,明显一路拍照多了很多 quality control 😉

也是对的,很多以为会再来的地方,说不定以后都不会再来,多留下些美好的影像,为什么不呢。

瞧我那大背包!
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这么近,看得最清楚了。
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走到村庄里面,和刚刚坐火车到达的感觉太不一样了,仿佛和这里的渔民们一样喘着气流着汗的走街串巷。
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难怪村庄会是五颜六色的,连晒起的衣服也是精心搭配好的。
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Margarita Pizza(玛格丽特披萨),据说是意大利特色。一个人的旅行,好像行走的时候多了很多,坐下来享受餐馆和食物的时间反而少了很多。

这一顿晚餐虽然有洋的陪伴,但我们仍然想留时间去据说夕阳景致最美的第二个渔村,Manarola,所以仍然是匆匆买了个披萨外卖,坐在小店外边聊边吃。

我们的生活好像很不一样,她在东莞(大家不要想歪 …),我在旧金山,做的工作也是风马牛不相及,但可能是同样的年纪,都会面临类似的问题,只是表象不大一样罢了。对我来说,她的故事初听起来像电视剧情节,略狗血;但,谁的生活里没有些电视剧情节呢?
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还去了一个很 “秘密” 的海滩,只有一个洞口通入而已 🙂
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马上就要夕阳西下了,很快赶到车站,坐上了前往 Manarola 的火车。

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正是夕阳最好的时候。
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地中海沿岸这一抹不经意的彩色,在夕阳的映衬下,有些童话的意味:阳光,海水和悬崖上的五颜六色的村庄。有人希望在旅行时分享,而我喜欢在旅行时睁大眼睛,大口呼吸,恨不得封存下这份记忆和感动。因为,将来再不会有。

拍了不少张照片,但却偏偏喜欢这张没有在看镜头的 🙂 记得以前有摄影师教过,要么就睁大眼睛看镜头,要么就完全别看,不然都有可以摆拍的嫌疑 …
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为了等到夜景,在海边坐着看了会儿房东的 lonely planet,把第二天在佛罗伦萨想逛的学院美术馆的票给定了,还算有效率,觉得时间也过很快。

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回程已是深夜十点。没想到,误打误撞,前一趟火车晚了一个小时(yep,一个小时),所以我到的时候刚好赶上,也不知道是上一小时的车终于到了,还是这一小时的车按点儿到了 🙂

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